Safia Minney, Founder of Indilsi, is interviewed by Little Ginger, Sustainable Fashion Boutique, Guernsey
Little Ginger (LG): You’re well known as Founder & CEO of People Tree, which was a trailblazer in sustainable and Fair Trade fashion. You left in 2015 to do other things, but you’ve recently started a new brand, Indilisi - how come?
Safia Minney: Yes, that’s right. And I’m so excited that you’re stocking Indilisi, just as you did People Tree. I’m really looking forward to coming to the shop next and meeting you all in person. When I separated from my husband who was also working in People Tree, I had no choice but to leave my operational role.
Of course, this was very upsetting, as it was my first child. I did other things, including working for an ethical shoe brand, speaking work, consulting and also set up Fashion-Declares, which is a grassroots movement of fashion practitioners that want radical change of the fashion industry - on that regenerates the natural world and redistributes the wealth of the fashion industry.
But when People Tree went into liquidation in Europe, I saw that crafts groups were struggling to find orders. I had known them for over 20 years, so I offered to help them, and then Voila, a new Craft fashion brand was born! Some men said I was too old to start another brand, but I think they were wrong; I have lots of experience and work with young creatives too to make sure the collection is strong and relevant. Sometimes people can be so rude!
LG: Are you the designer behind Indilisi? What is your design concept/ aesthetic or philosophy?
Safia: Yes, I am. It’s nice to lead the design process, rather than managing two design teams in London and Tokyo. Much more hands-on! I work with a brilliant young designer, Shayla Sakora, who started as an intern while doing a Sustainable Fashion MA when we were just starting Indilisi. Despite the age difference, we share a similar design aesthetic, design eye, and love of craft skills, natural fibres, and women’s rights. I love working with her.
I do a lot of public speaking. I like to wear sustainable fashion, ideally hand-crafted clothing that also looks a bit directional. I would struggle to find that in my wardrobe, despite all my People Tree pieces. So, Indilisi offers 100% hand-crafted, directional, timeless pieces. There are lots of sustainable clothing brands with simple designs. I also like multi-functional clothing, and this collection has the Rebel Skirt, which is a firm favourite. Caryn Franklin and I designed it together. Wearing 100% organic cotton is also good for your skin and health, and I like to have some elastic at the waist so that you can look put together without feeling squeezed in like a sausage!
I have always been inspired by Vivienne Westwoods aesthetic and the simpler lines of Margaret Howell; the latter opened a shop opposite ours in Tokyo. I would like to offer a high-quality product without the high-end designer price tag. This is only possible if I work carefully to ensure farmers and artisans are paid properly and to reduce waste and mistakes.
LG: You were the first to do certified organic cotton products made in the Global South; pilot and achieve the WFTO Fair Trade guarantee label, initiate and run World Fair Trade Day - and all the media work and collaborations with designers like Zandra Rhodes and Emma Watson - and then all those books...
Why did you feel sustainable fashion was so important? How did the vision appear?
Safia: It started in the early 90s, and I had launched Global Village in Japan to raise awareness of social justice and environmental issues in my front room. I sold Fair Trade products from Traidcraft and gave design input into their collections of crafts, food, and clothing. But it didnt really suit the Japanese market. So after a while I started visiting Fair Trade groups in Bangladesh, India, Zimbabwe, Kenya to develop products for the Japanese market.
I was moved and shocked at the exploitation of workers in sportswear and streetwear brands at the time, and wanted to offer a fair and eco-friendly alternative to young people. Also, I was a young woman and wanted to wear clothes that were fair trade but looked stylish. My Japanese customers and colleagues taught me a lot about market expectations, design and quality. The details really matter! People with design and fashion backgrounds came forward to help put the first collections together.
I have always believed that spending as much of our money on Fair and sustainable products and supporting these businesses and alternatives is key to a sustainable lifestyle and building sustainable and diverse economies. Clothing also acts as an advert; you can tell people the story of your clothes or jewellery at the pub, out at an event or at the bus stop… Sometimes I would see whole family wearing People Tree and I would want to hug them!
My father's side of the family were originally indentured workers in Mauritius, so that people have a fair chance and it is not only the elite who have a voice and opportunities. Many of the producers live in homes similar to those of my father’s family. This has been a source of great motivation - but I didn't realise this when I started my work in Fair Trade - it was a gradual and surprising discovery. Papa came to study in Europe, even though he had only left his village for the first time when he was 14. My Mum financed his studies to become a scientist - so equality was role-modelled for me from a very early age. Sadly, my Dad died when I was 8.
LG: What about your mother's side?
Safia: My Mum died last year, she was Swiss-German, so they were both foreigners in the UK. Mum's family were very progressive and ran a publishing and bookshop in Zurich.
LG: What is your hope for Indilisi?
Safia: I hope it will grow sustainably with good customers or partners. Fair Trade and making beautiful, handcrafted products at affordable prices isn’t easy; it’s only possible with close collaboration.
I’d like to prove that Craft is the future of Fashion. Many international organisations are calling for a 75-95% reduction in clothing production to redesign the industry to fit within planetary boundaries. If we buy handcrafted clothing, this could promote a Just Transition by providing dignified work for millions of people.
LG: Which are your favourite pieces in the collection?
Safia: Haha of course I like them all! But if I have to pick it'll be the houndstooth hand-crocheted cardigan. It’s so versatile - from the office, board meetings to casual autumn walks and coffee shops. I love working with the hand knitters in Nepal; their work is incredibly skilled, and the profits are also invested in local social impact work. I also LOVE the handwovens, especially the Rebel Skirt!
Safia will be talking at Little Ginger on 4th November. See Little Ginger Boutique for details.
